Portland, Maine:
New England Treasure
by Carrie Miner Photos courtesy of Maine Office of Tourism
Striking lighthouses, cobbled streets, historic architecture, a working waterfront and stunning blue waters all remind one of Portland, Maine.
The revitalized historic waterfront district and the trendy Arts District are just two of the reasons why this small town is frequently listed as one of the top ten perfect places to live in America.
Ranked as one of the nation’s top art destinations by American Style magazine, home to one of the best children’s museums in the country, and surrounded by classic New England villages, Portland is also an epicurean’s delight with more than 200 restaurants and brew pubs. It’s no wonder that Greater Portland sees more than 3.5 million visitors a year.
Founded in 1632 by English settlers, this city has reinvented itself time and time again – rising from the ashes of the past like the legendary phoenix. Yet at the same time, Portland has retained its long history and colorful character. In fact, this historic city was aptly dubbed the “Jewel by the Sea” by the famed poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.
Portland has been destroyed more than once: in 1675 by Native Americans during King Philip’s War, and again in 1866 when the Great Fire swept through the town.
But the city and its people have always proved resilient. After the Great Fire, Portland was rebuilt from the ground up – only this last time, residents constructed their Victorian-style structures from brick so they wouldn’t burn again. This remains an architectural accent that adds to the nostalgia of the historic commercial and waterfront districts.
Getting Oriented
Your best introduction to Portland is a walk along the streets of the working waterfront at Old Port. Successfully revitalized in the 1970s, the historic warehouse district combines the hustle and bustle of an active seaport with chic shopping, numerous dining options and lively entertainment.
Commercial Street runs along the water’s edge and seamlessly connects the cobblestone streets leading to eclectic boutiques, famed brew pubs and fabulous restaurants.
Adjacent to Old Port, you’ll find Portland’s famed Arts District – a traditional shopping street which has been transformed into one of Maine’s trendiest destinations. Here in Uptown along Congress Street, you’ll discover the town’s cultural center with a stunning array of art galleries, antique shops, and artist studios. This is also the location for several world-class museums, historic public buildings and performing art venues.
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Historic Old Port
Portland’s bustling Old Port (www.oldport.com) is best explored on foot. This heart of Portland offers a taste of everything from antique shops to laid-back brew pubs. Some of the best restaurants in town can be found here as well. Dockside restaurants offer everything from elk and venison to Maine’s sweet and succulent lobsters.
While you’re here, be sure to check out the architecture at the U.S. Customs House (312 Fore St.; 207.780.3326). Constructed from New Hampshire granite after the Great Fire of 1866, this lovely building is still used as a base for the Customs Service and Coast Guard.
Another interesting stop is the Portland Fish Exchange (6 Portland Fish Pier; 207.773.0017; portlandfishexchange.com) – a truly amazing look at a “full display auction” of fresh fish brought in from the Gulf of Maine.
Artistic Ventures
A few short blocks away, a stroll along Congress Street will take you to world-class Portland Museum of Art (7 Congress Square; 207.775.6148; portlandmuseum.org), which is renowned for its collection of 18th century fine art as well as its American and European art collections.
Next to the Portland Museum of Art you’ll discover the Children’s Museum of Maine (142 Free St.; 207.828.1234; www.kitetails.com), one of the top ranking children’s museums in the country. At the interactive exhibits, kids can climb Mount Kid-ta-din in the L.L. Bear Discovery Woods, dress up for an improvisational theatrical performance and get a unique glimpse of the city through a camera obscura.
For a bigger picture of this sparsely populated state, stop by the Center for Maine History (489 Congress St.; 207.774.1822; mainehistory.org). Changing exhibits highlight the charming chronicles of Maine, the 23rd state to join the Union. Other historical stops in this district include the First Parish Unitarian Universalist Church (425 Congress St.; 207.773.5747), the oldest stone building in the state, and the 1786 Longfellow House (487 Congress St.; 207.772.1807), home to the famed 19th-century poet Henry Wadsorth Longfellow.
For an artistic point of view of this lively downtown area, your best bet is to join in the revelry of the First Friday Art Walk (firstfridayartwalk.com), which is held the first Friday of each month from 5 to 8 p.m. Another option is to swing by Portland’s Downtown District office (94 Free St.; 207.772.6828; portlandmaine.com) for a Portland Gallery Guide.
Shopping Mecca
In Freeport, Maine — just 15 minutes outside of Portland — is the granddaddy of all L.L Bean stores, as well as more than 120 other outlets, hotels and restaurants.
The L.L. Bean Flagship Store is an adventure park in itself, offering visitors everything from a trout pond for trying out fishing gear and a boulder for testing hiking boots, to a coffee bar and Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Parlor to keep everyone in the family happy. The store also offers classes in paddling, fly fishing, kayaking, clay shooting, outdoor photography and any other sport that seems appealing.
The newly renovated Hunting and Fishing Store has a life-size stuffed moose, plays round-the-clock fishing videos and now offers an interactive archery studio where people can hone their skills. Together, both stores employ 400 people year-round and more than 1,000 during peak season.
The 160,000 square foot Flagship Store is located on the original spot where Leon Leonwood Bean opened his retail business in 1917. The store attracted visitors at all hours of the night, and so in 1951 Bean removed the locks from the front doors and decided to keep the store open 365 days a year, 24 hours a day. Since that day, the store has closed its doors only twice – in 1963 when John F. Kennedy was assassinated and in 1967 when the founder himself died at age 94.
More than 200 years before becoming a shopping haven, Freeport was a small logging town. Today, Freeport is an enormous retail mall, humbly disguised as a classic Maine village. There are more than 120 outlets that line the strip along Route 1 between exits 17 and 20 off Interstate 95, but strict planning guidelines have preserved the quaint surroundings of the area.
Hidden parking lots remain out of view from passers-by so that the more than 3.5 million annual tourists can enjoy the local charm while browsing the latest trends. Many of the old homes and buildings now house upscale shops and businesses. Banana Republic is situated in a handsome brick Federal-style row house, Starbucks is in a mustard-yellow saltbox house and McDonald’s serves customers out of a picture-perfect white farmhouse with green shutters. Freeport’s outlets also include Gap, J.Crew, Polo/Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Cole-Haan and Maiden Form, to name a few.
Performing Arts
Along with Portland’s stunning architecture and vibrant arts scene, the city doubles as a thriving cultural mecca, belying its small town atmosphere.
An evening out on the town can include catching a concert by the Portland Symphony Orchestra (207.773.6128; portlandsymphony.com) or a main stage production by the Portland Opera Repertory Theatre (207.879.7678; www.portopera.org). Both organizations perform at the newly-renovated Merrill Auditorium on Myrtle Street.
Another option is to catch a play by Maine’s premier professional theater — the Portland Stage Company (25A Forest Ave.; 207.774.0465; portlandstage.com). And families would do well to catch a quality act at The Children’s Theatre of Maine (317 Marginal Way; 207.828.0617; www.childrenstheatre.biz) – with upcoming performances of Fairy Houses from July 7 to August 7. This world premiere musical production is based on the best-selling book written by Tracy Kane and promises to be a treat for kids of all ages.
Monumental Undertakings
Some of the state’s most well-known monuments are Maine’s lighthouses, seven of which are located in Greater Portland. Of the seven, only the 67-foot, white cast-iron Cape Elizabeth Light and the 77-foot, grey granite Ram Island Ledge Light are still in use as navigational aids.
For an in-depth look at these sentinels, visit the lighthouse keeper’s quarters at the Portland Head Light (Two Lights State Park; 66 Two Lights Rd.; Cape Elizabeth; 207.799.5871). It features a museum chronicling the history of the lighthouses and their pivotal roles as the guardians of the busy seaport.
Back in town, the Portland Observatory (138 Congress St.; 207.774.5561; portlandlandmarks.org) resembles a lighthouse, but in actuality the 1807 building is a maritime signal tower – the last of its kind in the country. A visit to the architectural icon is a must for romantics interested in the “Golden Age of Sail.” If nothing else, the stunning views of Portland Harbor from the tower make this a spot worth experiencing.
Also in the Arts District, you can see a bronze statue of the beloved poet at Longfellow Square, and the Portland Soldiers and Sailor’s Monument at Monument Square – both of which were created by native sculptor Franklin Simmons.
And while walking the streets of Old Port, make time for a stop at the Whale Wall. The 450-foot waterfront mural, located on the Maine State Pier at Commercial Street, was painted by the famous artist Robert Wyland.
Out and About on Casco Bay
If you’re seeking a little fresh sea air, outdoor enthusiasts have plenty of tour options down at the Portland Harbor.
One of the best sightseeing excursions in Portland is the Land and Sightseeing Tour offered by Mainely Tours (3 Moulton St.; 207.774.0808; mainelytours.com). This comprehensive roundabout excursion passes harbor seals, seven lighthouses and takes a trip around the Calendar Islands.
After the cruise, you can hop on board a trolley for a narrated ride to several of Portland’s historic sites including Longfellow’s childhood home and the Portland Head Light, which was commissioned by President George Washington in 1791.
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For a more extensive tour of Greater Portland’s historic attractions, join one of the seasonal jaunts promoted by Greater Portland Landmarks (165 State St.; 207.774.5561; portlandlandmarks.org). A favorite trip for locals and visitors alike is the Old Port Walking Tours, which are held daily from 10:30 a.m. to noon from June 15th through Columbus Day. Tickets can be purchased at the Convention and Visitor’s Bureau, which also happens to be the starting point for the tour.
Hometown Memories
Longfellow reminisced about his beloved childhood hometown in his 1855 poem “My Lost Youth.”
Often I think of the beautiful town
That is seated by the sea;
Often in thought go up and down
The pleasant streets of that dear old town,
And my youth comes back to me.
And so Portland revisits its own youth – each day as the sun rises and the sea mist rolls in, each time stately sails navigate into the port’s safe haven, and each time someone treads on the cobbled stones that have rung with measured steps of all of those who have gone before.
—Rachael Carlomagno contributed to this story.
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Best of
Portland, Maine
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Best Season: Summers offer a perfect climate in Portland, with average temperatures in the mid-to-high 70s. You’ll fit right in with casual summer wear, but be sure to bring a light sweater or jacket for the evening’s cool ocean breezes.
Best Landing: The best place to put down in Portland is at the Portland International Jetport (PWM), which offers all of the usual amenities of an international airport.
Best Place To Stay: If you’re staying in Old Port, your best options are the luxurious Portland Harbor Hotel (468 Fore St.; 207.775.9090; portlandharborhotel.com) or the lovely Portland Regency Hotel (20 Milk St.; 207.774.4200 or toll-free, 800.727.3436; theregency.com). For elegance in the Arts District, you might want to rest your head at the historic Eastland Park Hotel (157 High St.; 207.775.5411; eastlandparkhotel.com), which is known as “Portland’s first lady of hospitality” and is home to the city’s only rooftop lounge.
Best Dining: Dimillo’s Floating
Restaurant (25 Long Wharf; 207.772.2216; dimillos.com) reigns supreme as Portland’s famous seafood restaurant with its equally famous harbor views. This charming floating restaurant is a great place to try some of Maine’s fabulous lobster or equally fresh seafood. For something with a little more spice, locals agree that Tandoor Indian Restaurant (88 Exchange St.; 207.775.4259) is the best Indian restaurant in town, according to a Portland Press Herald Readers’ Poll. Other local favorite dining spots include Walter’s Café (15 Exchange St.; 207.871.9258; walterscafe.com) and Eve’s Restaurant at the Portland Harbor Hotel (468 Fore St.; 207.775.9090). For a listing of Portland restaurants complete with reviews, check out Food in Portland (165 Ocean Ave.; 207.780.9601; www.foodinportland.com) -- touted as Maine’s premier online dining guide.
Best Nightlife: Top ranking brew pubs in this city by the sea include the ever-popular Gritty McDuff’s Brew Pub (396 Fore St.; 207.772.2739; grittys.com), a traditional English pub serving up handcrafted beers, and Three Dollar Dewey’s (241 Commercial St.; 207.772.3310), which boasts the distinction of having Old Port’s largest selection of beers and ales on tap. If beer isn’t your style, check out the trendy Una Wine Bar & Lounge (505 Fore St.; 207.828.0300), which is lauded as Portland’s best martini bar.
Best Event: On Thursdays from July 8 to August 12, visitors can swing by Monument Square and get in the groove of things at the Alive at Five Outdoor Concert Series (portlandmaine.com). The current lineup for the outdoor concert series includes performances by Shelby Lynne, Big Bad Voodoo Daddy, Great Big Sea, They Might Be Giants and John Eddie.
Best Way To Get Around: To see all of the Portland area, your best bet is to rent a car. You’ll find all of the major car rental agencies including Alamo 207.775.0855 or toll-free, 800.GOALAMO; Avis 207.874.7500 or toll-free, 800.230.4898; Budget 207.772.6789 or toll-free, 800.527.0700; Hertz 207.774.4544 or toll-free, 800.654.3131; and National 207.773.0036 or toll-free, 800.CAR.RENT –all of which have offices at the airport’s consolidated car rental atrium. Another, more limited option is to catch a shuttle (transportme.org), which connects the airport to select locations.
Best Planning Resources: Convention and Visitors Bureau of Greater Portland Maine; 245 Commercial St., Portland; 207.772.5800; gotoportland.com. Portland’s Downtown District; 94 Free St., Portland; 207.772.6828; portlandmaine.com. Maine Office of Tourism; 59State House Station, Augusta; 888.624.6345; visitmaine.com. Maine Tourism Association; 327 Water St., Hallowell; 207.623.0363; mainetourism.com.
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