 Palm Springs, California:
America's Desert Playground
by Carrie Miner | Photography Courtesy of Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism
Like the movie stars that made Palm Springs a famous destination – this desert garden spot flaunts a style uniquely its own.
Hidden in the midst of the Colorado Desert and guarded by jagged, snowcapped mountains – an exotic oasis awaits. Once known as a getaway for Hollywood movie stars and moguls, Palm Springs was billed as the star of the season in her glory days.
But as the seasons and styles changed, this aging resort town lost favor among the rich and famous seeking an even brighter star. In recent years, Palm Springs has reinvented its allure – drawing more than two million visitors a year ranging from silver screen celebrities to family fun seekers.
The Lay of the Land
Surrounded by picturesque mountain ranges – the Little San Bernardino, the Santa Rosa and the San Jacinto Mountains – the Coachella Valley sits along the San Andreas fault, which is responsible for region’s natural hot water springs and palm oases.
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The Village of Palm Springs takes its name from one of these mineral hot springs – now the site of the Spa Resort Casino – which was revered for its healing power by the Agua Caliente Band of the Cahuilla Indians. The Cahuilla Indians’ sacred ancestral lands also include the Indian Canyons – Andreas, Murray, Palm and Tahquitz canyons – home of the largest natural fan palm oases in North America.
Most of the Village’s major attractions line the town’s main drag – Palm Canyon Drive. A stroll down Palm Canyon Drive will introduce you to most of downtown’s sights.
For a grander view of this renowned resort town and its neighboring communities, take the world-famous ride up the 10,831-foot  Mount San Jacinto on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (Tramway Rd.; 760.325.1391). The tramcar – the world’s largest with a capacity of 80 passengers – rotates to provide 360-degree views of sheer cliffs and rugged mountainsides as it travel from 2,643-feet to 8,516-feet during a scenic 10-minute ride.
Cultural Heritage
The Agua Caliente band of the Cahuilla Indians originally settled the area of what is now Palm Springs more than 2,000 years ago. Captain Juan Bautista de Anza passed this way on his first exploratory expedition through the region in 1774.
However, it wasn’t until more than 100 years later, in 1877, when the Southern Pacific Railroad passed through Cahuilla lands, that Europeans began to settle in the Coachella Valley.
Today, the Agua Caliente tribe own and control nearly 6,700-acres within the city limits of Palm Springs, making them the largest landowners in the Village of Palm Springs.
For a historical look at the cultural heritage of these native desert dwellers, stop by the Agua Caliente Cultural Center Information Center (219 S. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760.323.0151). Featured exhibits include Cahuilla basketry and pottery displays, historical accounts of the tribe’s cultural traditions and future plans for the 50-acre Agua Caliente Cultural Museum expected to be constructed near the world-famous Indian Canyons.
The Indian Canyons, which are listed on the National Register of Historic Sites, are maintained by the tribe and are open to the public. Exotic and unexpected in their lush beauty, you’ll encounter clear streams, rushing waterfalls, roaming big horn sheep and endangered birds. For information on the newly opened  Tahquitz Canyon and a schedule of ranger-led hikes, call the visitor center at 760.416.7044. Inquiries for the other canyons can be made at the tribal offices (760.325.3400 or toll-free, 800.790.3398).
The Agua Caliente also operate the Spa Hotel Casino (401 E. Amado Rd.; 760.883.1000 or toll-free, 800.258.2946), which is located on the original site of the palm oasis that gave Palm Springs its name. The casino, which is across the street from the hotel, occupies a full city block and offers a wide array of gaming 24-hours a day. Featured gaming opportunities include more than 900 slot machines and several table games offering blackjack, mini-baccarat and poker. There is also high-stakes play available in the elite Platinum Room.
Star Struck
Known as hip, historic hangout for the Hollywood set, Palm Springs quickly gained notoriety as a winter playground for the stars as early as the 1920s.  A balmy valley adorned with swaying palm trees and steaming with mineral hot springs only added to the allure that brought the rich and famous to the village’s secluded hideaways. After all, Marilyn Monroe and President John F. Kennedy supposedly held their illicit affair here and its rumored that Carole Lombard and Clark Gable honeymooned in this romantic hot spot as well.
Palm Springs’ star-studded A-list reads like a who’s who list of some of the brightest stars the silver screen has ever seen including Frank Sinatra, Sonny Bono, William Holden, Steve McQueen and Elvis Presley.
The Palm Springs Walk of Stars pays tribute to those early celebrity visitors as well as to the notables that have graced the Village with their presence since. For a tour of Palm Springs and a peek at the homes of movie stars and celebrities, you might want to sign up for a trip with Celebrity Tours, 760.770.2700, which conduct the rounds at 10:15 a.m. and 2:15 p.m. daily.
Museum Mania
For a town that sticks to the definition of a “village” – Palm Springs offers a surprising array of museums including everything from World War II aircraft to fine art and historical tributes to natural science. The Palm Springs Air Museum (745 N. Gene Autry Tr.; 760.778.6262) exhibits one of the world’s largest collections of propeller-driven World War II aircraft still in flying form. Some of the featured aircrafts in this must-see museum include a Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress, a Stearman PT-17 Kaydet, a Chance Vought F4U Corsair and a Republic P47 Thunderbolt. Other exhibits include flying memorabilia and artifacts, combat photography and video documentaries. Those seeking more historical tributes, will enjoy a visit to the Village Green Heritage Center (221 S. Palm Canyon Dr.) – a complex  which features an 1885 adobe home, and 1893 historic house built from railroad ties and a recreation of a 1930s general store.
The Palm Springs Desert Museum (101 Museum Dr.; 760.325.0189), founded in 1938, showcases 19th, 20th, and 21st century artworks including contemporary pieces, classic Western Americana, and Native American and Pre-Columbian art. Adding live entertainment to the mix, the museum’s Annenberg Theater schedules an eclectic mix of performing arts ranging from jazz concerts to dramatic plays. For an outdoor museum experience, walk the nature trails at the internationally-renowned Moorten Botanical Garden (1701 S. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760.327.6555), which is known for its comprehensive collection of more than 3,000 varieties of cacti, succulents and flowers.
Fun in the Sun
After walking the streets of Palm Springs, you might want to cool off and take a ride on one of the 18 waterslides at Knott’s Soak City U.S.A. (1500 S. Gene Autry Trail; 760.327.0499). This 16-acre water park features an 800,000-gallon Rip Tide Reef wave pool, a family fun house and towering slides guaranteed to make a splash with kids of all ages. Another popular option is to break out your clubs and hit one of the greens found in the valley. A few courses in Palm Springs that you might want to take a swing at include Mesquite Golf and Country Club (2700 E. Mesquite Ave.; 760.323.9377); Palm Springs Country Club (2500 Whitewater Club Dr.; 760.323.2626); and Tahquitz Creek Golf Resort (1885 Golf Club Dr.; 760.328.1005). There are more than 110 Palm Spring courses to choose from. Also, major golfing events such as the Bob Hope Chrysler Classic and the Nabisco Championship (formerly the Dinah Shore) are played here each year.
Relaxed Contemplation
The Village of Palm Springs has grown older with grace, retaining its history from its glamorous days as an international playground, yet opening up its one-time high-profile resort status to a more family-friendly atmosphere.
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This hip hangout has a lot of heart. Whether you’re interested in the stars that still walk the city streets or if it’s the celestial sparkle in the clear night sky that captures your imagination – the Village of Palm Springs welcomes one and all to its garden in the desert.
In the words of California poet Mary Austin, “For all the toll the desert takes of a man it gives compensations – deep breaths, deep sleep, and the communion of the stars….” 
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The Best of Palm Springs
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Best Season: The best time to visit Palm Springs is during the winter and spring months when average daytime temperatures hover in the 70s and 80s and drop to a brisk mid-40s when the sun goes down. Palm Springs sits at 487 MSL in a desert setting, so be sure to wear sunscreen, even in the cooler winter months, and bring a sweater or light jacket for the brisk morning and evening hours.
Best Landing: The best place to put down in Palm Springs is at the Palm Springs International Airport (PSP). Typical rules for desert flying apply here; avoid bumpy afternoon flights in favor of the cooler, smooth air of early evening or morning. Because of its location in a valley surrounded by towering mountains, routes into Palm Springs are limited to a few well-known routes. From the west, a ride through Banning Pass (punch BNG into your GPS) is often bumpy but is also the shortest route through the Sierra Nevada mountains. From the east, follow V16 or V64, or the preferred VFR route following US Interstate 10.
Best Places to Stay: There are plenty of places to relax at the end of the day in the Village of Palm Springs, which offers the choice of 6,500 rooms in more than 130 hotels, motels, country inns, resorts and B&Bs. A stay at the Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn (412 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way; 760.320.0771 or toll-free, 800.966.9597; www.thewillows
palmsprings.com) will take you back to the romance of old Palm Springs. Modeled after a Mediterranean villa, this 1927 inn roomed such famous personalities as Albert Einstein, Marion Davies, Clark Gable and Carole Lombard. Another notable historic place to stay is the Ingleside Inn (200 W. Ramon Rd.; 760.325.0046 or toll-free, 800.772.6655; www.inglesideinn.com), built in 1925 as a private residence and then converted to an exclusive inn in 1935. Noted as “One of the Ten Best” by the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, this hot spot has been visited by numerous celebrities including Marlon Brando, Bob Hope, Goldie Hawn, John Travolta, Liza Minelli, Dinah Shore and Arnold Schwarzenegger. If you’re looking for something a little different, check with the city’s room reservation service or request a copy of the Historic Inns of Palm Springs guide at 800.347.7746.
Best Romantic Adventure: Dinner reservations at Ragnar’s begin with a sensational uphill gondola ride overlooking the lights of town. First stop, the Thunderhead building, where guests are treated to cocoa or hot cider at the Stoker Bar. Then, bundled under army blankets in sleighs drawn by snow cats, couples snuggle as they travel across the mountain to their destination at the Rendezvous building. Ragnar’s staff members, dressed in traditional Scandinavian garb, welcome diners to the candlelit restaurant. A five-course meal, featuring Scandinavian and other delicacies, follows in a cozy wood-paneled room where an acoustic guitarist provides musical entertainment.
Best Dining: Everything from burgers and milkshakes to world-class cuisine can be found in the more than 150 restaurants located in and around Palm Springs. Some famous favorites in the village include St. James at the Vineyard (265 S. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760.320.8041), which is known for its delightful mélange of continental entrees ranging from St. James’ signature curries to seafood delicacies; The Chop House-Palm Springs (262 S. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760.320.4500), which dishes up some of the Valley’s finest aged steaks and prime rib; and Citron in the Viceroy Palm Springs (415 S. Belardo Rd.; 760.320.4117), a gourmet’s delight with an exquisite selection of eclectic French-inspired California cuisine.
Best Way to Get Around: A car is almost necessary to travel around in Palm Springs, especially if you decide on a day trip to the numerous little towns “Down Valley”. You’ll find all of the major car rental agencies including Avis 760.778.6300 or toll-free, 800.331.1212; Budget 760.778.1960 or toll-free, 800.221.1203; Hertz 760.778.5100 or toll-free, 800.654.3131; and National 760.327.1438 or toll-free, 800.227.7368 – all of which have offices at the Palms Springs International Airport. There is also a comprehensive public bus system, Sunline Transit Agency, which travels with a regular schedule throughout the Coachella Valley; 760.343.3456 or toll-free, 800.347.8628.
Best Planning Resources: The City of Palm Springs Official Visitor Information and Reservation Centers; 2901 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 760.778.8418 or toll-free, 800.347.7746; www.palm-springs.org. Uptown Visitors Center; 777 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Suite 101; 760.327.2828. Jeep Eco Tours; 67-555 E. Palm Canyon Dr., toll free, 888.440.JEEP; www.red-jeep.com.
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