South Beach, Miami:
Serenity, Sizzle & Urban Chic
by Carrie Miner
Pack your bags. Blue skies, turquoise waters, classic  art structures and Latino salsa keep you coming back for more. This is no sleepy beach outpost.
Once a middle class playground, then a slum and neglected neighborhood, South Beach has reemerged in its latest incarnation as the wildest, wickedest and most whimsical beachfront in the nation.
To many, this little slice of tropical paradise constitutes a class by itself. Often called “America’s Riviera,” this famous destination encompasses the  two-square-mile southern tip of the 10-mile-long barrier island of Miami Beach. But it is so much more than that.
South Beach, known to its residents and with-it visitors as SoBe, mixes kitsch and class with tropical fusion in a kaleidoscopic style that is all its own. Turquoise waters, white sand beaches and pastel Art Deco buildings contrast with a neon nightclub scene, exotic cuisine and glamorous decadence. Lummus Park slopes down to smooth beaches cooled by trade winds and aquamarine waters warmed by the Gulf Stream. The Art Deco National Historic District, located along nationally-known Ocean Drive, is home to the streamline and moderne hotels built during prohibition. The district now boasts some of the most luxurious hotels in South Florida.  Sexy South Beach nightclubs garner renown worldwide as the place to see and be seen. Jet setters from New York’s runways to Hollywood’s silver screen take measure of their pleasure in the bistros and clubs too elegant to be called “bars”. And restaurants and cafés add an elemental flair to the “world’s greatest adult playground” with a mélange of flavors derived from Italian, French, Chinese, Thai, Cuban and Latin American cuisine.
In the Beginning
South Beach became a popular holiday location as early as 1909, when 35,000 people turned out for South Beach’s official opening. By 1915 Biscayne Bay had been dredged to create more waterfront property and a bridge had been constructed connecting the mainland with the island – Miami Beach was on its way to fame and glory.
The 1920s, 1930s and 1940s saw a flurry of construction that gives South Beach its casual chic atmosphere and which has made Ocean Drive and its funky Art Deco architecture one of the most photographed scenes in the United States. This corner of the island’s first claim to fame was as a resort town for organized crime, starting with Al Capone’s reign during Prohibition. Not long after South Beach’s illustrious start, gamblers and gangsters were soon replaced with middle-class vacationers looking to enjoy a little bit of paradise in America’s Playground.
But as private vehicles came more common, South Beach lost some of its charm for Miamians who started visiting other beaches along the coast. By the late-1950s, South Beach began a rapid decline from shiny prosperity to urban decay. It wasn’t until the late-1980s that the Barbara Baer Capitman, a spirited New York transplant, led the preservation movement that saved the more than 800 buildings that are now distinguished as the Art Deco National Historic District -- the nation’s first 20th-century district listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Hip Hospitality
These hotels, found along famous Ocean Drive, create a fanciful pastel palette right out of pop culture with their curvy architecture painted in colors reminiscent of lemon sherbet, strawberry ice cream, key lime pie, orange spice and grape bubblegum. This celebrated piece of beachfront between 1st and 23rd streets has several Art Deco jewels sitting along South Beach’s signature pink sidewalks.
The one-square-mile area bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, Lenox Court, Sixth Street and Dade Boulevard features prime examples of Art Deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings built between 1923 and 1942 including the late Gianni Versace’s Spanish  Mediterranean Casa Casuarina, formerly known as the Amsterdam Palace, the cut coral façade and porthole windows at the Tides Hotel, and the 1939 Hohauser-designed Cardozo. The style of Art Deco features pastel colors, neoclassical style, exotic motifs, stylized natural designs, geometric patterns and “ultramodern” industrial sensibilities. To familiarize yourself with this whimsical style you should stop by the Art Deco Welcome Center (1001 Ocean Drive; 305/531-3484) where you can pick up a self-guided audio tour or take a 90-minute guided tour, departing from the center at 6:30 P.M. Thursday and 10:30 A.M. Saturday.
Beach Bound
Just on the other side of Ocean Drive, the Atlantic stretches out to the horizon. The popular Lummus Park, located east of Ocean Drive between 5th and 15th streets is dotted with fun and funky lifeguard stands that have made their way into countless fashion photo shoots and music videos. The palm shaded, white sand beach ranks as one of the best beaches in the nation and makes a great place to relax for some fun in the sun. A concrete walkway stretches  along its length and is a favorite of bikini-clad in-line skaters or visitors looking for a place to stretch their legs.
Because South Beach is geared for adults, you might see more than the casual flash of skin on the wide, white beaches. Families often head to South Point Park off of Washington below 5th Street. Although this southern-most tip is not part of the revival, the 17-acre family-oriented park provides plenty of play with its beach, observation tower, playground, picnic pavilions and 150-foot Sunshine Pier where you can watch ship pass on their way to dock at the Port of Miami.
Artistic Endeavors
South Beach embraces art at the Bass Museum of Art (2121 Park Ave.; 305.673.7530) with its extensive collection of 20th-century paintings, sculpture, graphics, photography, and architectural and design arts from North America, Latin America and the Caribbean. Some of the permanent exhibits feature 15th-century altar pieces by Giovanni Mazone, Sandro Botticelli and Domenico Ghirlandaio; artworks by Rembrandt, Dürer, Daumier and Toulouse-Lautrec; and the architectural archives of Lawrence Murray Dixon and Morris Lapidus, which document the development of Miami Beach in blueprints, drawings and photographs. Another must-see museum in the district is the Wolfsonian-Florida International University (1001 Washington Ave.; 305.531.1001), which features design history in a modern collection of furniture,industrial-design objects, glass, ceramics,
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metalwork, rare books, periodicals, paintings and textiles from 1885 to 1945.
Also situated in the Art Deco District is the Jewish Museum of Florida (301 Washington Ave.; 305.672.5044), located in the 1936 building that originally housed the Miami Beach’s first Jewish congregation. Further down the way at Meridian Avenue and 19th Street you can view the Holocaust Memorial – a 42-foot-tall bronze monument sculpted by Kenneth Triester in remembrance of the six million Jewish victims of the Nazi
Holocaust. The solemn sculpture is especially noteworthy as the city was once home to the second largest community of Holocaust survivors in the nation.
Shopping South Beach
Lincoln Road Mall (on Lincoln Road between Collins Avenue and Alton Road), the 1950s futuristic vision of renowned MiMo architect Morris Lapidus, is home to an eclectic mix of chains and boutiques – which also line most of Lincoln Road from ocean to bay. The eight-block-long, pedestrian-only avenue was once known as the Fifth Avenue of the South during its heyday in the 1950s. Today, savvy shoppers will find everything from orchids to fresh produce at the Sunday farmer’s market to best-selling books and brownies at Book and Books. For the best and the brightest in fashion world, be sure to stop be South Beach’s fashion district on Collins and Washington avenues between 5th and 9th  streets where you’ll find designer stores including Betsey Johnson, Cynthia Rowley, Hugo Boss, Versace and A/X Armani Exchange.
Moon Over Miami
The languid indolence that seems to permeate South Beach sensibilities switches to fast-paced fever when the sun goes down. The dining scene is an integral part of SoBe nightlife, which encompasses a quirky mix of exotic flavors and glittering glamour. Known internationally for its sizzling nightlife, South Beach welcomes an influx of more than 30,000 people streaming across the bay to sample its chic clubs.
Many of SoBe’s restaurants transform into trendy nightclubs as evening deepens. Club-hopping is the norm here, but you might want to decide on which clubs you will want to attend and ask your concierge to place you on the guest list. The hottest spots are sizzling in this lively scene where you can party until the sun comes up only to start another day watching the surf roll in.
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The Best of South Beach
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Best Season: The subtropical climate of South Beach practically guarantees sunny days and clear nights, especially during the prime season from October through May. The temperature in the winter months here hovers in the 70s, encouraging casual resort wear. However, you should take a light sweater or jacket to ward off the chill in some of the indoor venues. And don’t let the mild weather fool you into forgetting sunscreen or a hat if you are playing outdoors. The sunshine is intense, making suntans just part of the carefree lifestyle.
Best Landing: Your best bet to put down in the vicinity of South Beach is Opa-Locka (OPF) with three runways and four FBOs. Other options include Kendall-Tamiami Executive Airport (TMB), ranked Florida’s General Aviation Airport of the Year, and Miami International Airport (MIA) – the seventh busiest airport in passenger traffic in the nation offering all of the amenities and hassles of an international airport.
Best Places to Stay: The Art Deco District offers the best in world-class accommodations with restored historic buildings ranging from minimalist chic to designer decadence. Favorite in the fun and funky set include the spacious rooms at Tides (1220 Ocean Dr.; 305.604.5070), the chic Sagamore Hotel (1671 Collins Ave.; 305.535.8088) and the upscale Royal Palm Crowne Plaza Resort (1545 Collins Ave.; 305.604.5700). To check on special deals in South Beach hotels call 800.364.0521.
Best Dining: South Beach’s cuisine embraces a melting pot of flavors utilizing local products such as mango, papaya and fresh seafood. Even though the food is called many names – Tropical Fusion, Nuevo Latino and Floribbean – the setting stays the same on South Beach. The seaside local encourages dining al fresco at the Art Deco outdoor cafés. For an exotic experience with aphrodisiac cuisine try the grilled filet mignon with Cuban coffee sauce or the ginger kissed salmon at Tantra Restaurant and Lounge (1445 Pennsylvania Ave.; 305.672.4765). For a trendy, eclectic experience, check out Barton G. – The Restaurant (1427 West Ave.; 305.672.8881). Favored dishes at this landmark dining venue include the runaway sea bass baked “papillote” style, the butcher’s cut prime rib and the flash fried Florida lobster. And of course, no visit to South Beach is complete without a visit to Joe’s Stone Crab (11 Washington Ave.; 305.534.8788) – a famous restaurant that’s been serving up crab delights since 1913.
Best Nightlife: Hip hangouts abound in South Beach with dance clubs hitting the beat until the break of dawn. While you can get by with jeans and a T-shirt in some of the clubs, your best bet is to dress with a stylish flair for an evening in the trendy nightclubs. Some local favorite haunts include the Crobar (1445 Washington; 305.672.8084), Opium (136 Collins Ave.; 305.531.5535) and Nikki Beach Club (1 Ocean Dr.; 305.538.1111).
Best Planning Resources: Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau; 305.539.3000; www.miamiand
beaches.com. Miami Beach Chamber of Commerce; 305.674.1300; www.miami
beachchamber.com.
Best Way to Get Around: Because the Art Deco District at South Beach only covers 1.5-square-miles your best bet is to do as the natives do and walk to your destinations. Unless you plan to leave the area, a rental car will be more of a hindrance than a luxury. If you don’t feel like taking a leisurely stroll along South Beach, you can always hail one of the yellow cabs cruising the city streets (Metro Taxi Co.; 305.888.8888). |
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